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The Ranger Vapes Coilology Series is a weekly post about the more technical or controversial aspects of vaping. I attempt to not litter the post with opinions or bias but rather science and theory. Please enjoy.
Coilology Series # IHNI
I have seen some crazy rating schemes when grading vape hardware. I propose a standardization when rating vape hardware based on the typical xx/10 or xx out of 10 schema. Below is my proposal;
xx/10 10: New in package sealed (retail) 9: Never used open box/Manufacturer flaw 8: Used pristine condition (Like new) 7: Used normal wear (Minor scratches and wear) 6: Used well worn but functional (Significant scratches and wear) 5. Abused but functional (Dings, gouges, cracks) 4. Non functional new/pristine 3. Non Functional used normal wear 2. Non Functional Abused 1. Parts only
o No decimals, categorize according to the above table o Suggestions welcome in comments below
Ranger Vapes Coilology Series # IHNC
My mech mod hits harder than yours... really?
When discussing mech mods a question I field constantly and consistently is, does it hit hard? What's the voltage drop? My XXXX brand mod only has 0.XX voltage drop, so mine is better than brand XXXX. blah blah blah.
The reality is they are all nearly the same when compared equally, ie; compare a copper mech mod to a copper mech mod etc. So lets take a couple of Brass mech mods and compare them first by price and then performance. All mods are tested using a 30 Amp charge and 4.2v which is 126 watts of power
Immortal Grip $300 0.5 watts of loss @ 126 watts
Purge Slam Piece $400 1.6 watts of loss @ 126 watts
Mechlyfe Arcless $60 2.0 watts of loss @ 126 watts
Timesvape Dreamer $80 2.8 watts of loss @ 126 watts
The difference from the worst voltage drop to the best is a mere 2.3 watts of power. So instead of vaping at 126 watts with the Grip, you are actually vaping at 125.5 watts and the dreamer at 123.2 watts. This does not take into account battery voltage sag, atty or coil resistance, only the mech mod.
In a blind test can anyone really tell the difference between 123 watts and 125 watts? Really?
But mine has silver contacts and springs and it hits so much harder! Adding silver to the average Mech Mod decreases voltage drop approximately 0.02 watts. The less voltage drop your mech mod has the less impact silver contacts will have on your mod.
The most important factor concerning contacts is surface area, contact with the battery and the smoothness of the contact which directly correlates to surface area contact. Battery maintenance is also an important factor, ensuring that the battery contacts are clean and flat rather than dimpled due to improperly assembling a mech mod (Always screw down the atty before placing a battery in a mech mod, never slam the battery down the tube like a mortar) Plating contacts ensures that the contacts are smooth and level but who likes plated contacts? Not this guy!!! Generally plating will wear or flake off due to the high amperage load.
Maintaining your mech mod is the best thing you can do to ensure proper performance. Remove arc marks from the contacts and threads, ensure threads are clean and debris free. If you use a liquid or paste polishing compound ensure your thoroughly remove it. Check your battery contacts and wraps every time you change batteries (Stomp, Stomp!) And for Gods sake, you own the best Mech Mod ever made, why? Because it's yours and your off the stinkies!!
Let the hating begin!!
Ranger Vapes Coilology Series #
Why are Aliens so popular?
Assumptions: Because they look cool? Marketing scheme because not everyone can build them? Elitism?
One (1) of the three (3) assumptions are correct, they do look cool! Let’s dig deeper into the construction of an Alien and lay out the physics for you to decide.
An Alien coil is formed by building a single core Clapton and then removing the core leaving only the fuse. The builder then decides on the number of cores and wraps said cores with the de-cored Clapton fuse. The end effect is a wave pattern which is the hallmark of an Alien wrapped coil.
A few definitions first: Capillarity: This phenomenon describes the ability of a liquid to flow against gravity in a narrow space. Cohesion: The attractive forces between similar molecules or atoms Surface Energy: The energy associated with the intermolecular forces at the interface between two media.
As described above when building an Alien coil, the builder first builds a Clapton. While spinning the Clapton the fuse wire undergoes a slight transformation. The coiling action stores surface energy within the fuse wire that will be later added to cores to complete the Alien coil. While spinning this Clapton fuse wire onto cores the builder is adding even more surface energy based on the tension of the wrap. To much tension, or to tight of a wrap and that energy is transferred to the cores especially after being heated up due to thermal expansion.
Surface energy and capillarity are symbiotic. Surface energy causes the surface tension of a liquid to become more linear and creates greater Capillarity or capillary effect of a liquid or as it relates to vaping, more eliquid volume. Alien coils bring on these forces into play unlike any other coil. Multiple cores within a coil will have a similar effect regardless of the outer fuse wrap but not as efficiently or quickly as an Alien wrapped coil.
I try to keep these short and to the point so here is a video of capillarity characteristics of an Alien coil by Twisted Messes to demonstrate the above dialogue.
Let the hating begin!!
Ranger Vapes Coilology Series # IDK
**Coil Cleaning**
Cleaning your coils as part of a cyclic maintenance regime will greatly increase the longevity of your coils. I generally recommend cleaning your coils every time you re-wick your atty. There are multiple ways to clean your coils, but for this post I will discuss three popular techniques. I have customers who are using the same coils after 9 months of everyday use, using the first two techniques of coil maintenance. The third technique will greatly decrease the life of your coils and is not recommended. This post does not address cartridge (Sub ohm) type coils. Throughout this whole process do not remove the coils from the atty, during the initial burn & Strum of new coils to check for hot spots the coils will form an oxidation layer over the coils. If you remove your coils from the atty and do not return them in the exact same position you will lose a degree of coil performance.
Burn & Brush:
Equipment required: Small stainless steel (SS) brush
This technique requires the least amount of equipment, very quick and does a great job to restore your coils to near new condition.
1. Remove all wicking material and remove atty from Mod.
2. Place coils under running hot water and lightly brush to remove large carbon deposits and eliquid.
3. Thoroughly dry the atomizer and place onto a regulated mod
***SAFETY NOTE: The next step may cause a small fire to develop on your coils, take precautionary measures***
4. Burn the coils. The wattage used is not important, the key is to not allow the coils to glow bright red. A dull red glow is as far as you should safely glow the coils. While burning the coils use your SS brush to lightly dislodge any remaining burnt eliquid from the coils. Repeat as necessary
5. Allow the coils to fully cool and rinse in hot water.
6. Allow to fully dry, re-wick and enjoy!
Burn, Brush & Shake (Preferred and most thorough)
Equipment required: Small stainless steel (SS) brush, Ultra Sonic cleaner (Preferably heated)
1. Execute steps 1-5 above
2. Place atty and coils in ultra-sonic cleaner and allow to run for 30 min. (I will not get into cleaning solutions, rinse runs etc.)
3. Thoroughly rinse and dry, re-wick and enjoy
Burn & Quench (Least desirable and greatly reduces coil life)
*NOTE: High quality coil wire is annealed, which allows the alloy to settle into its natural state and improves flexibility. Quenching is the process of tempering an alloy to freeze its hot state structure which increases resistance and causes the coil alloy to be brittle.
***SAFETY NOTE: Water is conductive, never activate the mod while running under water.
***SAFETY NOTE: Li-ion batteries are dangerous in nature, if your mod gets wet it can short, cause arcing or damage the chipset which can be catastrophic.
1. Don't use this technique!!!!
Ranger Vapes Coilology Series:
Silver contacts and springs are a waste of money
UNPOPULAR FACTS: What your Mech Mod is made of ie; Aluminum, Brass, Copper or Pure Silver, does not make a whole lot of difference but there is one exception. A stainless steel constructed mod will generally have more significant voltage drop as SS is on the cusp of a conductive metal. How much you ask? A Copper Kennedy Vindicator will have a power loss of approx. 0.6 watts @ 30 Amps while a SS Vindicator will experience a loss of approx. 4.2 watts at 30 Amps. Can you tell the difference between 190.8 watts and 186 watts? Maybe, but in a blind test I would be surprised if a difference could be discerned. As we decrease Amperage (power) the voltage loss also decreases. Does purchasing Silver contacts make it hit any harder? The facts are, Yes. You will experience and increase of approx. 0.06 watts of power at 30 Amps by changing out the button contact, spring and atty 510 pin. So we went from 190 watts to 190.06 watts. When using a Mech MOD at 20-30A the human sensory system is unable to detect variations of <5 watts which is less than the conductive difference @ 30A between brass and Silver.
Construction, machining and engineering of the Mech Mod will make a huge difference though!!!
Ranger Vapes Coilology Series:
TCR Alloys
Ever wonder why your Stainless Steel coils resistance jumps around so much?
Temperature Coefficient Resistance or TCR, what is it and what does it mean?
Temperature Control (TC) or Temperature Factors of Resistance (TFR) works by monitoring the live resistance of the coil and converting the resistance into temperature, based on the temperature coefficient of resistance (TCR) of the wire. TCR varies depending on the material. TCR is a measure of the relative increase of resistance associated with a 1° Celsius (C) or more accurately 1° Kelvin (K) change in temperature. Alloy sensitivity is the actual resistance change of a wire as it heats up. For instance, Stainless Steel 316L 26g wire will show a resistance of 0.50Ω at 20° C (Room Temp) but as it heats up the resistance changes to 0.72Ω at 600° C which contributes to slower ramp up of SS wire over the duration of the heating sequence given it's density.
What makes a wire alloy TC/TFR compatible? TC and TFR are two ways the current chip manufactures use to effectively convert TCR which is generally a behind the scenes calculation executed on the board that we will not get into. Every wire alloy used for vaping has a TCR value, but, are generally irrelevant unless the value is high enough to be effectively computed. Generally of the most used vape coil alloys with the highest TCR factor are SS, Ni200 & Ti.
**DNA chips are able to compute any wire alloy TCR value by downloading the TCR curve to the board w/ 98% efficiency.**
TCR/TC/TFR does not take into account static resistance (SR) which is defined as:
- Differences in wire quality
- Manufacturing methods
- Proprietary alloy nuances
- User error (coil legs not secured properly, coil build errors etc.)
SR is the bane of any coil builder as there is no way to factor SR into a build other than ensuring using high quality materials that you are intimately aware of and how it effects the coil.
Many coil builders prefer not to use high TCR value wires in their builds due to the above factors, especially resistance jumps. There is no way to mitigate the physical properties of the wire by build technique etc. but, giving your customers a good layman understanding of why the coils are acting the way they are will greatly improve a builders credibility and relationship with their customers.
Ranger Vapes Coilology Series:
The Best Coil wire and build
I get asked this question all the time so thought I would throw this out there. There is no "best" coil wire or "best" coil build.
SIMPLE BUILDS
Single and parallel Round wire builds are very easy to build, nearly anyone can wrap a wire around a mandrel to form a coil.
Claptons and fused claptons are a slight step up from round wire builds above, with about 1 hr of practice with a drill anyone can make a clapton or fused clapton. The fuse wire traps eliquid drawing it closer to the core wires allowing it to heat up and stay in contact with the cores until vaporization occurs.
ADVANCED BUILDS
Aliens are similar to fused claptons with the added benifit to self wick, considered by many as the best all-around vape coil build.
Staggered builds (SFC, SSFC etc) Staggering the fuse produces larger juice pockets which create spit back with fast ramp up builds
Framed Aliens designed to ramp up quickly, inner cores of lesser gauge, and attain high heat, larger gauge frames with the wicking ability inherent with alien fuse.
Framed Staple Aliens, Staple Aliens utilizing ultra thin ribbon wire for lightning fast ramp up and great flavor, but, are known to lose performance rather quickly due to eliquid residue between the ribbons and nearly impossible to clean.
COMPLEX BUILDS
Generally considered "Coil Porn" to showcase the craftsmanship and ingenuity of a builder. These are the innovators of the coil building community.
Wire composition as it relates to coil building is subjective based on your vaping style. Below is a objective look at different wire alloys used for coils:
KA1:
Ramp up: 4
Heat: 5
Flavor: 5
Durability: 10
Maintenance: 6
NI80:
Ramp up: 6
Heat: 7
Flavor: 8
Durability: 8
Maintenance: 9
NI90: (Technically not a resistance wire)
Ramp up: 9
Heat: 8
Flavor: 7
Durability: 6
Maintenance: 8
316L: (Technically not a resistance wire)
Ramp up: 7
Heat: 7
Flavor: 9
Durability: 6
Maintenance: 7
*The above tests were executed using 26g round wire spaced coils of equal resistance (0.15Ω)
**Higher number equates to better performance
Ramp up: The time taken for the coil to reach 600F (Faster = higher score)
Heat: Surface temp of the coil at 2 seconds (Hotter = higher score)
Flavor: Based on poll of 100 users ability to detect the coil w/ non flavored eliquid (Subj)
Durability: Ability of the alloy to maintain metallurgical consistency and performance over multiple heating sessions to 1000F
Maintenance: Rapidity of cooling to 120F from 600F generally associated with less burnt eliquid aka gunking. (Shorter time = higher score)
Ranger Vapes Coilology Series:
Coil resistance and Battery Safety
When it comes to risk, the relationship of the coil and battery is the highest risk you will encounter when vaping. This post is designed to establish a foundation of knowledge to mitigate the inherent risk associated with batteries. I will not get into Series and Parallel battery configurations in this post.
OHMS LAW: The basic calculation that must be executed to ensure that your coils are not requiring more current than the battery can provide. To execute an Ohms law calculations you must know at least two values. One value we know is the voltage output of the batteries we use. a 18350, 18650, 20700, 21700 all put out 4.2-3.5 Volts through the safe charge span of the battery. In the beginning the voltage will peak at 4.2v and generally the battery will level out at 3.7v for the longest duration of battery use. You should recharge you battery when it reaches 3.5v. For safety reasons I recommend using 4v as your Voltage input for the purposes of Ohms law calculations. The next value you should know is the resistance of your coils. We will use a resistance value of 0.10 Ohms for our calculations. Coil resistance is determined after properly pre-burning and strumming your coils for hotspots.
A simple Ohms Law Calculator can be found here> CLICK HERE
Input your known values in the appropriate positions, enter "4" in the Voltage (V) position and "0.10" in the Resistance (R) position and hit Calculate.
RESULTS AND WHAT THEY MEAN: The calculation that we are most interested in is the Current (I) value, this value is the required Amps to push electricity through the coil to complete the electrical circuit. This value should not exceed the CDR of your battery. In our calculation the result is 40 Amps. The Samsung 30T 21700 is the highest rated battery at 35 Amps CDR. According to our calculations a set of 0.10 Ohm coils exceeds the capabilities of a Samsung 30T 21700 battery and therefore is rendered unsafe.
But Ranger all my friends vape much lower resistance coils than 0.10!!! Experienced vapers take calculated risks when vaping low ohm coils. They have, or, should have a great understanding of the risks associated with exceeding the capabilities of the battery and mitigating that risk.